Trekking Across New Mexico
May 22, 2005
Hi everyone from beautiful Santa Fe, NM!
I can't believe I've been on the trail for seven weeks...this is turning out to be such an incredible journey. I am extremely grateful to my support team back home--without them, especially Linda V., I wouldn't have made it this far, experiencing the life-changing journey that I am encountering.
I am sitting in the Santa Fe Horse Park overlooking incredibly green polo fields, with trainers working the morning routine with 20 or so horses. The setting is beautiful, so vastly different than what I've come through. But that's the nature of the journey. Two nights ago, I was eating a five star New Mexican meal, with, of course, margaritas, in a wonderful restaurant, and last night I microwaved two hot dogs and slept on the floor.
I've thoroughly enjoyed my ride through New Mexico, but it hasn't been without it's challenges. The night I slept in the truckstop will go down as one of my hardest nights. After having to move "out of sight" at the truckstop, I had to tie the horses out onto two parking lot lights 100 yards apart, which set Val off. She managed to break her halter twice that night, investigating the billion idling diesel trucks parked next to my tent, that was lit up like the light of day. After finally securing my two naughtly companions that night at five in the morning so they would stop their shenanigans, I headed in to spend nine dollars for my mother's day truckstop shower. Once showered I packed up camp and waited for the couple who was bringing Val and Rocky their morning water. Unfortunately, the water ended up making Val go into a spasmodic colic. Fortunately, the vet I stayed with outside of Gallup the night before was able to meet me and treat her. I find it incredible the way each day sets up, and such a blessing that events fall into place. Had I not stayed at Red Rock Animal Hospital the night before, I wouldn't have had a vet so willing to meet me at a truckstop on mother's day morning. Once Val was doing well we headed onto the interstate to our next destination, Thoreau, NM. The day was hard, after such a long night and it was the first Mother's Day I spent alone. I missed my children greatly, and tears were streaming down my face as I rode. I wasn't looking forward to spending the night alone in a barn, but thankfully I met Jerry and Harrison who saved my Mother's Day and the next few days. They offered me a place for the horses and a wonderful home cooked meal. Jerry, just a terrific guy, is a counselor at Crown Point Institute of Technology (CIT), a Navajo college, and Harrsion is a culinary graduate from CIT. Jerry is a true cowboy at heart and made arrangements to ride with me for the next three days to Pereje, while Harrison offered to make gourmet meals, tailgate style, providing hay and water for the horses each morning and evening. We had such a great time seeeing the country in a pampered camping style and the horses thoroughly enjoyed the break, as their packs were being hauled in the "chuck truck." Our second night we stayed with Sonny and Joyce who opened up their home to a band of strangers, and Sonny, an accomplished Mexican bull fighter and rodeo rider, did it with a grin that never stopped from ear to ear. The last day of our ride we encountered some of the most incredible country at the base of Mt. Taylor. The terrain along old route 66 proved to be difficult for Val and Rocky's feet but the topography was stunning. It's what the pictures of the old west is made of--wide open spaces framed by beautiful mountains. Mt. Taylor was beautiful, snow-capped, jutting up to clear blue sky, majestically looming over it's front yard of high desert grasslands. We were headed into Pereje to stay with Miriam, a Laguna woman with such deep beauty inside and out. Miriam's house, a welcoming adobe home, was farther than we had anticipated, Rocky's feet were getting sore, Val was getting cranky, and I hadn't gone to the bathroom all day. Miriam and Harrison met us with the trailer for Rocky, while Jerry and Cowboy and Val and I cantered into Miriam's. My full bladder almost didn't make it. This was the first moment I took care of myself before my horses. Whew.
This leg of the journey I had been riding for 10 days without a break, so the final day of this leg with Harrison and Jerry, we took a break and went sight seeing into the ancient city Acoma, or sky city, while Miriam was at work. Acoma,with it's rich history, is the center of a Pueblo tribe, on top of a single Mesa. It is home to 30 Native Americans who continue to live in it's ancient dwellings, and survive by selling beautiful tribal pottery, where yes, visa and mastercard are accepted. Kind of shattered the moment.
After a long hug, and a tearful goodbye to Jerry and Harrision, who provided such comfort and support for the previous three days, I met Miriam who took me to her family's ranch where I encountered an area called Drippings. Curious to know why it was known as Drippings, Miriam told me to wait and see, as she jumped from rock to rock like an elk. I had a hard time keeping up with her, but I was glad I did. What unfolded before me was an incredible scene. I don't know if it was sacred ground, but it moved me spiritually. There was a small mountain, not green like back east, but a rock formation with sparse vegetation. Somehow there was a river in the mountain that escaped in the form of drippings down the mountain over an arch, that pooled at it's base. It was breathtakingly quiet and moving, as the water dripped to the rocks below. I could feel her ancestors collecting water from long ago and the rumblings of the spirit as we continued on the ranch. The area at one point was a live volcano that had spewed its rocks as far as the eye could see. This was what had been so incredibly hard on the horses feet, the Marquis boots I had taken with me, had failed miserbly and I knew I needed to have the horses shod, as their feet wouldn't make the 60 miles through volcanic ash to Albuquerque.
It was once again, difficult saying goodbye to my host. Miriam and I had bonded through a great girl talk and ride through her ranch and it was a joy getting to know her.When I had left Gallup, heading for my miserable mother's day truckstop, I had met Ernie along the way, a kind hearted man who offered me assistance in any way I needed it. Ernie was coming to Miriam's to trailer my horses to his small ranch in Albuquerque where they could rest and recupperate from their first shoeing experience. As always, my next host family turned out to be as good and generous of spirit as my last. Ernie and Dianna were wonderful hosts. Before Dianna actually met me, Ernie had been chastised for bringing home yet another stray. Apparently over the years, Ernie has been known to bring home a stray or two, but never a woman and two horses. Dianna was a terrific sport, however, and welcomed me into her family along with Carol Ann, a friend and rider from back home, who flew into Albuquerque the next day to ride with me for a week. It took two days to find a competent ferrier who could shoe the horses with borium and tungsten carbide--a system that helps to make the shoes last longer as well as preventing "skating" on asphalt. Matthew Hagerman from Reliable Horseshoeing in Albuquerque rose to the challenge and managed to shoe two horses who had never been shod, without incident. Carol Ann and I enjoyed the visit with Ernie and Dianna and their family--a large Hispanic family that absolutely embraced us and made us feel at home. Ernie and Dianna's two grand-children lightened my longing for my own children. Eight year old Jacob possessed traits of Sam, including his guitar playing, that I found so endearing. One night after dinner he came over to read me his favorite book Sam I Am, that just sent my tears spewing, as did the morning I left, when I heard a knock on the door, and a yellow card with the two of us drawn on it wishing me a safe trip, slipped under the bathroom door. It was like receiving my mother's day card from Sam. As I travel on this journey, the children I am meeting gladden my heart as I recognize that the traits Sam possessed live on in others. Thank you Jacob for helping me to recognize that.
Albuquerque proved to be a large, vibrant city that was going to be extremely difficult to navigate with Carol Ann's first trip on Rocky. I opted to accept Ernie's offer of trailering through Albuquerque to the other side, as it should be, safety is first and foremost with my traveling companions. As Ernie left us on that road side, it was like saying goodbye to an adopted father, and once again we stepped out into the unknown. Not to worry though. Our next stop was at Walkin'-N-Circles Horse Rescue where Colleen and John, our hosts, and numerous volunteers greeted us. Colleen and John run a wonderful rescue and Colleen is a powerhouse within her field. It was wonderful seeing how a rescue in the west was being run, and I know I'll see Colleen again on the East in D.C. as we push through for a National Association of Rescues. We continued our journey on up through New Mexico heading for Santa Fe, along the Turqois Trail, or route 14. The east side of Albuquerque is surrounded by the Sandia Mountain Range and we were riding along the east side of the range where the roadside grasses were becoming abundant. Along the way we rode into Madrid, a funky town like no other. The town at one time was a coal mining town that turned into a ghost town. Sometime in the 60's, artists and hippies took over the mine shafts and the main street to make edgy studios in funky spaces. It really works, although, as a side note the whole town is for sale if anyone is interested. There are no rules and we could have tied up to the bar on the main street to quench both Carol Ann's, mine and Rocky and Val's thirst. But we were good, and didn't. Although a cold beer on that hot day would have tasted good even to me. We continued on up the Turqois Trail to pull into our next hosts, Sally and Ralph, who had met us along the way with water for the horses. As we rode up route 14 heading towards Santa Fe, the terrain was once again changing. Distant mountains surrounded us on all sides, rolling hills greeted us, yet the vegetation was still the same, junipers and clusters of grasses, and lots and lots of rocks and pebbles. We were staying in Cerrillos a small town with adobes, which I have come to love for their exuding warmth and welcoming style, with of course a church, studios, and Mary's Bar. This is an up and coming town, just on the outskirts of Santa Fe. Sally and Ralph's home was about five miles outside of Cerrillos at the base of a mountain overlooking Santa Fe and her snow capped peaks. Incredible view, especially at night. Sally and Ralph are both retired educators, fluent in Spanish, and have traveled extensively throughout Mexico, Central and Latin America. Ralph continued to educate, imparting his knowledge and I sapped it up as we talked about the places he had seen as we scoped out the next route through Santa Fe. Each room in their home is themed base, mostly based on their travels and living in the west. Sally is an extremely competent horsewoman, who rides harder and faster than anyone I have ever encountered. As I continue to grow older, I can only hope that I have the spirit and fearlessness that she possesses. Ralph and Sally put Carol Ann and I up for three days, with beds, showers and great food--including a terrific meal at one of Santa Fe's best restaurants. I was quite attractive heading into the five star restaurant in my one of three outfits and by now, filthy riding boots, and unruly hair. They passed it off as tourists. Carol Ann and I had the pleasure of riding with Sally, on her horses in the practice benefit run for The Horse Shelter, a rescue. I wanted to ride, as it is one of the causes I am riding for, and I'm glad I did. I was able to meet great riders and enjoy a fast and furious ride over rough territory, rather than plodding along at three miles per hour. Carol Ann was quite a trooper and it was difficult saying goodbye to her after enjoying her company for a week. I asked her what she would tell the folks back home, and she replied it's been the best experience of her life. Truer words have never been spoken.
God bless and peace,
Love,
Linda :)